Tree planting around Little Rock, right tree in the right spot

Where it goes matters more than how

We start with the tree's mature height and spread, then work back to a spot where it will not hit the roof, foundation or wires in twenty years. Big shade trees need real room; small flowering trees fit near the house.

Planting itself is simple done right: a wide, shallow hole, the root flare at grade, loose native backfill, mulch kept off the trunk, and watering you can keep up.

Shade tree planting

Oaks, maples and other large shade trees give the most back but need the most space. We site them well away from the house and lines, on the side where summer shade matters most. Container or balled trees are set at the right depth, the burlap and wire pulled back, and the hole backfilled with the soil that came out. Big trees planted small often catch up to larger nursery stock within a few years, and they establish more easily.

Replacement after a removal

Planting on the exact spot of a removed tree fights old roots and a settling grind hole. We usually move the new tree a few feet off the old center, or grind deeper and bring in soil if the spot matters. It is also a chance to choose a species that suits the space better than the one that came out, especially after a storm removal. A pine that came down on the house might be better replaced with an oak set farther away, or a smaller tree that will never reach the roof at all.

Staking and first-year care

Most new trees do not need stakes; the ones that do are staked loosely and the ties removed within a year so the trunk strengthens. We mulch in a wide ring, keep it off the bark, and give you a watering plan for the first two summers, when new trees are most likely to fail. A new tree lost in its first August is almost always a watering problem, so the plan spells out how much and how often in plain terms you can actually keep up with.